Everything about Raasay totally explained
Raasay (
Scottish Gaelic:
Ratharsair) is an
island between the
Isle of Skye and the mainland of
Scotland. It is separated from Skye by the
Sound of Raasay and from
Applecross by the
Inner Sound. It is most famous for being the birthplace of the poet
Sorley MacLean, an important figure in the
Scottish literary renaissance. Traditionally the home of
Clan MacSween, the island was ruled by the
MacLeods from the sixteenth to the nineteenth centuries. Subsequently a series of private landlords held title to the island, which is now largely in public ownership. Raasay means 'Isle of the
Roe Deer' and is home to an
endemic subspecies of
Bank Vole.
Economy and culture
The primary employment is in
tourism, working for the
ferry company, crofting and fishing, or commuting to work on Skye. There is a
primary school, but older students go to
Portree via ferry and bus. A fifteen-minute ferry ride connects the island with
Sconser on Skye.
Sites of interest include the remains of a
broch, the ruins of
Brochel Castle, inscribed stones, the old
manor of Raasay House, abandoned crofting communities, and many walking paths.
There is a shop/post office located in Inverarish. Accommodation is available at the
Isle of Raasay Hotel, the
Raasay Outdoor Centre (located in Raasay House), at various
B&Bs, and the
Scottish Youth Hostels Association hostel,
Creachan Cottage.
There are significant numbers of incomers and holiday homes especially in the north of the island. This has helped to arrest the population decline from over 900 in 1803 to 194 in 2001. Some inhabitants belong to the
Free Presbyterian Church of Scotland who strictly observe the
Sabbath. On Sundays there are no public services, the playground is closed and, until 2004, the ferry didn't run. 2008 saw the start of construction of a new £12 million ferry terminal at Churchton Bay, and the refurbishment of Raasay House, leading to the temporary closure of the outdoor centre.
Flora and fauna
Raasay is home to the Raasay vole (
Clethrionomys glareolus erica), a
subspecies of
Bank Vole, which is darker and heavier than the mainland variety and found nowhere else in the world. It is possibly a survivor of a
Scandinavian race.
Pine Martens, otherwise absent from the
Hebrides colonised the island in 1971 and Raasay is one of only four of the
Inner Hebrides where
Mountain Hares breed. Raasay is regularly visited by
White-tailed Sea Eagles and
Golden Eagles and there are populations of
Otter,
Water Shrew,
Red Deer and
European Rabbit (which were thoughtlessly introduced by the island's proprietor in the 19th century). It also supports a rich variety of plants, including the
Carline Thistle (
Carlina vulgaris) and Red
Broomrape (
Orobanche alba) which are not commonly found on the adjacent mainland and various
saxifrages,
orchids,
alpines and
ferns. There are several stands of mixed woodland.
History
The spread of Scots culture from
Dalriada north of
Ardnamurchan is poorly understood and little is recorded of Raasay's early Christian period. The placename
Kilmaluag suggests the presence of
St Moluag in the late sixth century.
15th to 17th century
Tradition has it that
Clan MacSween originally held title to Raasay but there's no written record of this.
Brochel Castle, as it's more commonly known, was built by the MacSweens in the 15th century on the north-east coast of Raasay. Latterly, it became a base for the MacLeod of Lewis's
pirating activities prior to Calum Gharb's investiture there. The castle was inhabited until the death by drowning of the Chief Iain Garbh in 1671 and is now a ruin sitting atop a pinnacle. In the meantime the Macleods moved their seat to Raasay House at the south end of the island.
18th century
Although Protestant, the MacLeods of Raasay supported
Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745. After the defeat at the
Battle of Culloden, the Prince spent some time hiding from the British troops on Raasay and as a consequence of the island's support for the
Jacobite cause the original Raasay House and many dwellings were burnt down by government troops. In conversation with Malcolm MacLeod of Raasay during his short stay on the island the Prince confided that although his life on the run was hard, he'd rather live that way for ten years than be captured as he feared assassination. He seemed less aware of the risks his supporters ran. The atrocities perpetrated in the aftermath of Culloden were a shock to him. Of
Cumberland he said “Surely that man who calls himself a duke and pretends to be so great a general can't be guilty of such cruelties. I can't believe it”.
In 1773
James Boswell and
Samuel Johnson arrived on the island during their
Hebridean tour. Johnson wrote:
Our reception exceeded our expectations. We found nothing but civility, elegance, and plenty. After the usual refreshments, and the usual conversation, the evening came upon us. The carpet was then rolled off the floor; the musician was called, and the whole company was invited to dance, nor did ever fairies trip with greater alacrity. The general air of festivity, which predominated in this place, so far remote from all those regions which the mind has been used to contemplate as the mansions of pleasure, struck the imagination with a delightful surprise, analogous to that which is felt at an unexpected emersion from darkness into light.
When it was time to sup, the dance ceased, and six and thirty persons sat down to two tables in the same room. After supper the ladies sung Erse songs, to which I listened as an English audience to an Italian opera, delighted with the sound of words which I didn't understand.
Boswell went exploring and described the island as follows:
Having resolved to explore the island of Rasay, which could be done only on foot, I last night obtained my fellow-traveller’s permission to leave him for a day, he being unable to take so hardy a walk. Old Mr Malcolm M’Cleod, who had obligingly promised to accompany me, was at my bedside between five and six. I sprang up immediately, and he and I, attended by two other gentlemen, traversed the country during the whole of this day. Though we'd passed over not less than four-and-twenty miles of very rugged ground, and had a Highland dance on the top of Dun Can, the highest mountain in the island, we returned in the evening not at all fatigued, and piqued ourselves at not being outdone at the nightly ball by our less active friends, who had remained at home.
My survey of Rasay didn't furnish much which can interest my readers; I'll therefore put into as short a compass as I can, the observations upon it, which I find registered in my journal. It is about fifteen English miles long, and four broad. On the south side is the laird’s family seat, situated on a pleasing low spot. The old tower of three stories, mentioned by Martin, was taken down soon after 1746, and a modern house supplies its place. There are very good grass-fields and corn-lands about it, well dressed. I observed, however, hardly any inclosures, except a good garden plentifully stocked with vegetables, and strawberries, raspberries, currants, &c.
19th and 20th centuries
In 1843 the last laird, John Macleod, was deep in debt and chose to emigrate to
Tasmania The island was then acquired in 1912 by Baird & Co. who opened the
iron mine. A portion of the village served as a
prisoner-of-war camp for
Germans during the
World War I. who were used to work the mine. The island was purchased by the government in 1922 after the mine closed. In 1949 The
Forestry Commission was granted land bringing much-needed employment, and 1956 The
North of Scotland Hydro-Electric Board delivered mains electricity to the island. Having purchased the property for £8,000 he finally sold it to the
Highlands and Islands Development Board in 1979 for £135,000.
MacLean was to live much of his life off the island, but some of his time was spent in nearby
Sleat on
Skye and
Plockton on the neighbouring mainland.
Calum's Road
The two miles of road between Brochel Castle and Arnish were built using handtools by
Calum MacLeod BEM over ten years. Only when complete was the road surfaced by the local council; by then Calum and his wife were the last inhabitants of Arnish.
Calum's Road has been commemorated in song by
Capercaillie on their 1988 album
The Blood is Strong and in a book by Roger Hutchinson.
Further Information
Get more info on 'Raasay'.
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